Andalusian Himalayan climbing

Chapter 2

The first eight-thousander

1990 · Dhaulagiri

The first Andalusian eight-thousander came on 5 October 1990, with the summit of Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) CLUB AMA DABLAM. It was the second Andalusian expedition to an eight-thousander. Manuel Morales, aged 23, was the first Andalusian on a summit over 8,000 metres, and he very possibly became the youngest Spaniard to climb an eight-thousander at the time; a year later, Alberto Iñurrategi would take over that title. The expedition also included the Argentinian Miguel Sánchez, who climbed Argentina's first eight-thousander. It was also the second Spanish ascent of Dhaulagiri, a mountain Spanish teams had been trying without success for almost ten years.

Francisco Pérez Arrellano, an army officer from Jerez, climbed Shishapangma (8,027 m) on 13 October 1990, as part of a military expedition.

1992 · The first women

On 27 September 1992, Amparo Ortega and Macu Fernández, both from Granada, reached the summit of Shishapangma Central (8,008 m): the first ascent of an eight-thousander by Andalusian women.

1993 · Cho Oyu in winter

On 8 February 1993, Manuel Salazar, Manuel Morales and Manuel González (Lolo) achieved the first Andalusian winter eight-thousander: Cho Oyu (8,188 m), by the normal route CLUB AMA DABLAM. Andalusia had another second Spanish ascent, and the team received the Piolet de Plata from the Spanish Federation (FEDME).

1994–1999 · The Karakoram, Makalu and the first loss

In 1994, an expedition led by Juan Ramón Jiménez made the first Andalusian attempt on an eight-thousander in the Karakoram: Gasherbrum II (8,035 m). They reached 7,000 metres.

In 1997, an Andalusian team took on one of the greatest challenges in Himalayan climbing: climbing Makalu (8,485 m) in winter. They reached 7,200 metres CLUB AMA DABLAM, and this expedition saw the first fatal incident on an Andalusian expedition: the Sherpa Nima, the group's sirdar, died. That year, Javier Campos attempted Cho Oyu and reached 7,700 metres.

In 1998, Fernando Fernández-Vivancos attempted Cho Oyu, and Macu Fernández attempted Dhaulagiri, where she reached 6,600 metres. In 1999, Santiago Millán attempted Shishapangma.

Chapter 4

The Karakoram and Expedición Mujer Andalucía

2003 · The first success in the Karakoram

On 18 July 2003, Ricardo Guerrero reached the summit of Broad Peak (8,051 m): the first Andalusian success in the Karakoram. On the same mountain, Lina Quesada reached 7,500 metres.

That year saw the first attempt by an Andalusian expedition on K2, "Andalucía K2", which ended with Manuel Morales and Fernando Fernández-Vivancos at 8,200 metres CLUB AMA DABLAM. And on 22 May, Juan Castillo Peralta climbed Everest from the Tibetan side, with oxygen, as a member of a Guardia Civil expedition.

2004 · 211 metres short of K2

On the second attempt on K2, in 2004, Manuel Salazar reached 8,400 metres CLUB AMA DABLAM. Bad weather turned the Andalusian climbers back, and a great opportunity was lost: they were the first to miss out on the summit among a large group of climbers who did reach it that day.

2005–2006 · Lina Quesada and Gasherbrum

On 28 September 2005, Lina Quesada reached the summit of Cho Oyu alone: a new women's ascent. That year, an Andalusian expedition attempted Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) with the aim of climbing two eight-thousanders in the same season, and reached 7,450 metres. The team was Lolo, Rafa, Pedro, Salazar, Jorge and Fernando CLUB AMA DABLAM.

In 2006, Fernando Fernández-Vivancos reached the main summit of Shishapangma (8,027 m) on 9 May. On 20 May, Lina Quesada stopped at 8,460 metres, very close to the summit of Lhotse. July brought three summits on Gasherbrum II (8,035 m): Pablo Luque on the 22nd, Lina Quesada on the 24th (her second eight-thousander) and Javier Campos on the 29th. Manuel González (Lolo), on an international expedition looking for a new route on the north side of the Gasherbrums, didn't make the summit, but the group opened the first route from the Chinese side, reaching the summit of Gasherbrum East (7,758 m) CLUB AMA DABLAM. The climb came second in the FEDME expedition awards.

2007 · The most Andalusian eight-thousander

In spring, on 28 April, Lina Quesada took part in the Andalusian expedition to Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and reached 7,100 metres. Javier Campos reached the summit of Cho Oyu on 23 September, and Ricardo Guerrero on 4 October: Cho Oyu became the eight-thousander most climbed by Andalusians.

2008 · Everest and Makalu

In spring 2008, three groups went to Nepal. On 21 May, Lina Quesada made the first ascent of Everest by an Andalusian woman, with oxygen, and that same day Ricardo Guerrero and José Baena also reached the top, with oxygen.

On Makalu, Fernando Fernández-Vivancos, Manuel González (Lolo) and Jorge Vázquez made the second attempt on the mountain CLUB AMA DABLAM. With very bad luck, on 19 May they were stopped at 8,200 metres: strong winds forced them to retreat. Manaslu had its first Andalusian attempt, by Javier Campos, who didn't reach the summit. In Pakistan, Lina Quesada attempted Broad Peak for the second time, without success.

2009 · Manaslu and Cho Oyu

On 19 May 2009, Tamara Romero and Inma Garrido, of the Expedición Mujer Andalucía team, made the first Andalusian ascent of Manaslu (8,163 m). The cameraman Manuel González (Lolo) also reached the top CLUB AMA DABLAM.

On 23 September, Pepe Saldaña and Fernando Fernández-Vivancos reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8,188 m).