How to use a Grigri

What is a Grigri?

The Grigri is Petzl's assisted-braking belay device, one of the most widely used in sport climbing. When the climber falls, the device helps lock the rope, but it doesn't brake on its own: safety is down to the belayer, who never lets go of the rope on the brake side.

Almost everything below applies to any device: a tube, a Grigri or a Reverso. The belayer has to stay focused on the climber from start to finish.

This guide is no substitute for training. Learn to belay with an instructor before doing it on your own, and read your device's manual. You practise all of this on the club's taster day and rock climbing course.

1. Before you start: the partner check

Once you've picked the route, the climber checks that the rope is long enough and that there isn't a big weight difference with their belayer. Then each of you checks the other's kit:

• Device: the rope runs the right way through it (test it by pulling), the karabiner is clipped to the right point on the harness and its gate is locked.
• Harness: the waist belt sits above the hips and is snug to the body.
• Tie-in knot: in the right place on the harness, tied correctly, finished and tightened.
• Rope: with a knot in the end.

2. Spot until the first clip

Until the climber clips the first bolt, the rope isn't holding them. Spotting won't stop a fall, but it guides it so the climber lands on their feet instead of tipping backwards. Your hands go level with their pelvis and upper back, adjusted to how high they are and how tall they are.

While you spot, the rope is already in the device with enough slack for the climber to clip. As soon as they clip, go back to your normal belay position.

• Stand close to the wall: there's less rope between you and less risk of the climber hitting the ground.
• Look at where the route goes so you're not underneath the climber if they fall.
• Keep the rope out of the way so it doesn't get between their feet or bother them when they clip.

3. Hand position

You hold the rope the same way whatever device you use. And there's one rule with no exceptions: your brake hand never lets go of the rope.

4. Stay focused and on the move

Belaying isn't just paying out rope at the right time. If you watch the climber you'll see the tricky moments coming: a clip, a hard move, tiredness or nerves before a fall.

Moving helps you keep up with them. Step towards the wall when they're about to clip, then go back to your spot. The right distance depends on the place, but you'll rarely need to be more than 2 metres from the wall.

5. Holding a fall

If the climber falls, grip the rope on the brake side firmly and pull it down. Whatever the device, it's that hand that does the braking. Never grab the rope on the climber's side.

A good belayer does more than stop the fall: they soften it with a hop or a step forward when there's room, or hold it harder when the climber must not hit the ground, a ledge or another climber. There's no time to think about it during the fall, so think it through beforehand:

• How far and how hard the fall would be, for example if the climber is a long way above the last bolt or off to one side of the line.
• Whether there's anything they could hit, and room for a soft catch.
• Whether the route overhangs and, after a long fall, they'll struggle to get back on the wall.
• Your own spot: a soft catch will pull you into the wall, so you need clear ground, shoes on and no knots in the rope.

Practise holding falls in different situations, ideally with an instructor.

6. Talk before lowering

Neither of you should be surprised by what the other does. No speeches needed: just agree a few words beforehand, such as "OK", "coming", "take" or "lowering".

7. Lowering

Once the climber gives the signal and lets go, they control nothing: their descent is entirely down to the belayer. Lowering with a Grigri works differently from a tube or a Reverso, so learn it with an instructor. In every case, it's the brake hand that controls how the rope runs.

Based on Petzl's technical tip "Good practices for belaying a lead climber". Also check your device's manual on the Petzl website.